Fortress of Louisbourg And Alexander Graham Bell

Ned and Joe at Fortress of Louisbourg

Monday started off wet. It rained all night and into the morning. A good hard rain when you are in a tent is not. After about the fifth hour I started to notice that the tent was leaking in a few spots. Fortunately the rain stopped around 7:30 am and the tent leaked very little, nothing a few socks were not able to soak up.

The reason we were in the Southeast corner of Nova Scotia was to visit the Fortress of Louisbourg. The fortress was founded by the French in 1719 to protect their lucrative cod fisheries. Unfortunately they were competing with the British over this and the control over North America. In 1745 the British lay seige and captured the town. It was given back to the French three years later by treaty. In 1758 the British again captured the town and this time razed it.

In 1961 the Canadian government began a reconstruction of the town and fortifications. When you enter the town you are transported back to 1744 a year before the first siege. There are re-enactors throughout the village and fortress taking on the different roles of bakers, soldiers, cooks, fisherman etc. When you try to enter the gate the soldier on guard demanded to know where we from and what our business was. He quite put off to find that we were "British" and possible spies. Ned vouched for us we were allowed to enter.

Because of the wet weather I thought our visit was a bit more realistic. The fog was thick and nothing could be seen beyond the town. The ground was muddy and people had mud on them. The downside was being cold and wet. We still spent about five hours there looking in the different buildings, watching the blacksmiths, talking to the villagers, watching a cannon being fired and having a meal at one of the taverns.


The Approach to the Fortress of Loiusbourg


The Children at Dance and Song


The Waterfront Street of Louisbourg


The Frederick Gate


Joe Watches for the British


Overseeing the Troops


The Fortress Wall in the Fog


Ned and Joe Visiting


Conversing in the Kitchen

Saying au revoir to the fortress we started for Prince Edward Island. On the way we made a stop in Baddeck, NS, to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Bell decided to build a vacation home in Baddeck in 1885 after visiting because in his words, "I have traveled the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes and the Alps and the highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton outrivals them all." The museum has exhibits on Bell´s wide ranging interests and inventions, much of it undertaken at Baddeck.

We managed to catch the 7:30 pm ferry to Prince Edward Island and we soon found ourselves in Cavendish. Originally I wasn't going to take the ferry to PEI but I found out that you have to pay one way, to get off the island. I had planned on staying at one of the campgrounds in Prince Edward Island National Park. After driving around for a while I could not find it and after stopping to ask for directions found out that it was shutdown three to four years prior. So much for guide books, I should have called. We went to one of the other campgrounds and ending up sleeping in the car. The facilities were in such bad shape that I decided in the morning we would go to a different campground.


The Ferry to Prince Edward Island


The Woods Island Light on Prince Edward Island


Louisbourg, NS to Cavendish, PEI, 310 miles 6 hrs 25 min

Driving The Cabot Trail

Ned and Joe Posing in the Role of Moose

The next morning the weather looked like rain but it hadn't started by the time we broke camp. We set off. It would take three to four hours to drive the Cabot Trail without stops. That is impossible. Perhaps if you have driven it ten or more times you might become immune to the views. It took us almost seven hours. We stopped at many overlooks and hiked some of the trails. We drove up side roads to see waterfalls. There is still more that I would have like to see.

Our first stop other than a scenic pullout was at MacIntosh Brook. It is about a one and half mile hike through an old growth forest along a brook with small waterfalls. It was a good early morning way to loosen the legs and wake us up. The parking area has a kitchen shelter and when we finished the hike we fired up the stove and had our breakfast. While we ate it began to pour so our next stop wasn't until Beulach Ban Falls a bit further down the road. We continued along the Cabot Trail until we came to the Atlantic coast where we stopped at Green Cove.


Looking Down to Fishing Cove

The View to Pleasant Bay

I'm Telling You There are No Moose!

Green Cove is a small rocky headland that juts out into the ocean. It is formed of some really neat boulders of pinkish rock with intrusions of a highly crystalized granite forming lines and crosses. Down the road from there we turned down a side road to view Mary Ann Falls. They were crowded and there were people swimming the pools beneath them.

Green Cove


Joe and Ned Clamboring Over the Boulders

Our last stop along the Cabot Trail was to hike Middle Head. Middle Head is a long headland creating North and South Ingonish Bays. It is a two and half mile hike starting at the Keltic Lodge. The hike goes through some forests and meadows and has rocky cliffs on the sides and at the end for great views up the coast and to Cape Smokey to the south.

Wildflowers


Go Ahead Jump


The End of Middle Head


The Keltic Lodge Near Ignonish, NS

After the hike we said goodbye to the Cabot Trail and headed for the Southeast corner of Cape Breton Island taking the ferry at Englishtown and camping south of Sydney, NS at Mira River Provincal Park.


The Englishtown Ferry


Chéticamp, NS to Mira River, NS, 165 miles 8 hrs 28 min

To Cape Breton Island

The Cabot Trail

From Halifax we headed for Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail. Along the way we stopped in Stellarton to visit the Nova Scotia Museum of Industry. It is a hands on exploration of the industries in Nova Scotia from the past to the present. We were early so some displays were not quite set up but the boys had a good time.


Ned the Engineer


Tire Boys

Crossing the Canso Causeway we entered Cape Breton Island. At this point there are a number of ways to go and I decided to take the northerly, coast hugging Highway 19 the Ceilidh Trail. It is a pretty drive and we soon arrived in Chéticamp which for us was the beginning of the Cabot Trail.

The Cabot Trail is a 180 mile drive around the northern part of Cape Breton Island most of it being inside Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It is a beautiful drive with many pulloffs to view the vistas of deep valleys, mountains and ocean.

After we arrived in Chéticamp we made camp at the National Park's Chéticamp campground. It was early so we headed up the Cabot Trail a few miles to hike the Skyline Trial. The Skyline is 6 mile loop that goes out onto a headland about 950 ft above the ocean. Views are spectacular. The trail back is through a forest where moose are often spotted. We saw lots of moose sign but the only mammal was a lone ground squirrel. The woods were full of bird calls clear and bright.

On the way back to the campsite we saw a group of people on the side of the road with cameras. Slowing down to take a look we saw they were looking at a bull moose. He was munching his way around a shrub. He would be our only moose sighting. Other travellers I talked to reported seeing mothers and calves, two bulls, black bears and cubs, and bald eagles. One woman from the Netherlands told me they saw six moose. We saw only the one moose and ground squirrels. Bird wise is was terns, gulls, cormorants and crows.


The Cabot Trail Looking South


The Skyline Trail Boardwalk


Wildflowers and Tree Trunk


Our Only Moose


The Cabot Trail Winding Its Way North


Halifax, NS to Chéticamp, NS, 266 miles 7 hrs 8 miin

To And About Halifax, Nova Scotia

Joe Ask the Highlanders What Is Under...the Big Stone Behind Them

The drive to Halifax was interesting. We stopped in Annapolis Royale to visit the Annapolis Tidal Generating Station. It is the only generating plant in North America using the energy from tides. The boys were disappointed because they wanted to go on a tour but you had to be 16 or older. We then headed across the interior of Nova Scotia passing by Kejimkujik National Park. Just south of there we almost wrecked the car when we came around a turn and found a black bear in the middle of the road. It was large cub and once it saw us it quickly ran into the woods. I thought it wise not to follow.


The Annapolis Tidal Generating Station

After a quick visit to the town of Liverpool we next stopped at Lunenburg. Lunenburg is a UN designated World Heritage Site but I mostly wanted to see the Bluenose. Unfortunately it was in Prince Edward Island. We moved on through Mahone Bay, the city of churches and very near Oak Island home of the money pit. Soon we were in Halifax.

We camped in Dartmouth across the harbor at Shubie Park. On Friday, July 27, morning we drove into Dartmouth and took the commuter ferry across the harbor to Halifax. We wandered down the harbor front and visited with Theodore Tugboat before going to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. The museum contains boats, models of boats and ships, a chandlery, shipwrecks including relics from the Titanic and a pirate exhibit. There is quite a bit to see and we spent a lot longer there than I had planned.


Halifax from the Ferry


Halifax is Big Harbour of Theodore Tugboat


The Only Deck Chair Recovered from the Titanic

We had to get back to the car since our meter was running out so hopped the ferry back and then drove into the city to visit the the Halifax Citadel.

It is on a hill overlooking the city and is very impressive. The boys loved it especially Joe. I think we explored every nook of the place. They have a History Hunt that if you get all of the questions correct you get a free cookie which the boys both received.

After the Citadel we stopped at the Halifax Public gardens for a quick stroll then headed back to the campsite. I wanted to get up early tomorrow to make the drive to Cape Breton Island.


Joe Taking Notes on How to Fire a Cannon


New Recruits Ready For Duty


The Halifax Public Gardens are Beautiful


Digby, NS to Halifax, NS, 230 miles 7 hrs 17 min

Reversing Falls, A Ferry, And Whales

A Trip Through Maine Is Not Complete Without Blueberries

We left later than we wanted from Acadia National Park. Perhaps it was the park keeping me from getting up when alarm went off or it calling for me to stay and linger a little bit longer. But we did get up and broke camp and headed for Canada.

We took the scenic Route 1 along the Maine coast but because of the late start we could not stop long the way. When we reached Calais we had lunch and a fifteen minute wait at the border. We managed to get to St. John, New Brunswick with enough time to stop and view the Reversing Falls. They are rapids on the St John river that reverse direction when the tide comes in. It takes a while to watch them reverse, about 5 hours. We went to catch the ferry.

The ferry trip was nice. The ship was large and comfortable. We watched a movie and Joe and I saw some whales from the deck. One was spouting and I saw a whale tail. There were some porpoises swimming in the bow wake but when we got there they were gone. It was late when we got in so we decided to stay at an hotel in Digby, NS.


The Reversing Falls

Our Ship Comes In


The Bow Opens to Let Us In


Driving on the Princess of Acadia


Nova Scotia

Bar Harbor, ME to Digby, NS, 215 miles 8 hrs 59 min (Including time on ferry)

Mountains of Acadia

Atop Beech Mountain

Our last day in Acadia National Park was one up and down, literally. We walked across tidal pools and climbed two of the smaller maountains in the park.

We started in the morning for the western part of Mount Desert Island driving to the bustling town of Southwest Harbor. Southwest Harbor is very nice. I thought it much nicer than even Bar Harbor since the throngs of tourists (yes we were there but we are not much of a throng though the boys attempt to be sometimes) are absent. There is a very good bakery and grocery store and the library is wonderful.

From there we drove along route 102A to the natural seawall and explored the tidal pools. They were filled mostly with snails and kelp. Driving on we stopped at the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse one of the most picturesque lighthouses in Maine. The highlight for the boys was climbing the huge rocks and watching a lobsterman pulling up his traps, emptying them and sending back to the depths.


Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse


A Lobsterman Checking His Traps

Next stop was Echo Lake where we had lunch. After lunch we climbed Beech Mountain. The trail from Echo Lake is called Canadian Cliffs. It is a ladder trail which means that there are ladders fastened to the cliff face to help your ascent. Once at the top we took the Beech Cliffs loop for some great views. Coming down the ladders was the hardest part of the trail.


Joe and Ned Ascend a Ladder


The Canadian Cliffs Trail

Atop Beech Mountain


A Camouflaged Grasshopper Cannot Escape Joe

After this climb we were ready for, another climb. This time we went back to the eastern part of the island to tackle the Beehive. Not as challenging as the Precipice trail which climbs 1058 ft Champlain to the north the Behive is only 520 ft. The Behive is another ladder trail up the southern face. There are no ladders on this trail but iron rungs pounded into the granite cliff face to use as handholds or footholds. The boys were loving it and I had to call to them to slow down. We came down a trial that goes around the back of the Beehive by a hidden pond called the Bowl. The trail was laden with blueberries (note the "was") and the pond had beaver lodges and many frogs.


At the Start of the Beehive Trail


Our Goal the Beehive


Up the Side of the Beehive


Taking a Rest on One of the Ladder Sections


Don't Look Down!


The View From the Top


Blueberries on the Trail

After a late dinner we went to Sand Beach to partake in Stars Over Sand Beach though we left early since it was late and we had to break camp in the morning to catch our ferry in St John.

Acadia National Park was as beautiful and glorious as remember it from 20+ years ago when I last visited. Bar Harbor and the park was much more crowded though we were there at the height of the season. There were many things we didn't see or do like biking on the carriage trails but that only means we will have to come back and spend more time. One thing is for sure I am not going to wait another 20 years to return and Mary is coming with me.

Acadia National Park Hiking and Rain

It is Time to Get Up!

Monday we were up early to meet a park ranger for a hike up South Bubble. The theme of the hike was "Mountain Mysteries" the geology of Mount Desert Island. The main attraction for the boys was Bubble Rock. It is a large erratic deposited by the glaciers of the last ice age that seems to be balanced on the edge of the mountain.

After the hike we went down to the Jordan Pond House for lunch. We all enjoyed the pop overs and the boys went into the bushes and found blueberries. The weather started to turn to rain after lunch and instead of hiking some more we hopped in the car made a stop at the visitors center where Joe and Ned received their Junior Ranger badges Then we drove the park loop road stopping at Thunder Hole.

After dinner we went to the ranger program at the campground but the rain became to heavy and we headed off to bed.


Metamorphic Rocks are Like Play-Doh


Where is Bubble Rock From?


Are They Ones to Push Over Bubble Rock?


Joe Samples a Popover on the Lawn at Jordan Pond House


Joe Shows off his Haul of Blueberries


Joe and Ned are Tested for Junior Ranger


The Boys Take Their Junior Ranger Oath


The Precipice Trial up Mount Champlain


Thunder Hole at a Quiet Moment

Acadia National Park

Enjoying a Sunset on the Summit of Cadillac Mountain

Sunday, July 22, was our first day to explore the park. After breakfast we went to the park's Vistors Center to get the boys' Junior Ranger books and an overview of the park. The Friends of Acadia and the park were sponsoring the second annual Acadia Adventures: Family Fun Day at Sieur de Monts. There were about 15 different activities for the kids try our like a nature scavenger hunt, sun prints, pony rides and meeting Smokey the Bear. It was a lot of fun and they even provided lunch.

That night we headed to the top of Cadillac Mountian to view the sunset. The weather was perfect and the sunset brilliant. After we got back to camp we went to the ranger program then to bed.


Our Campsite at Blackwoods Campground

Joe Works on his Junior Ranger Badge


It is Hard Work


Cadillac Mountian From Afar


Joe and Smokey the Bear Remind You That, "Only You Can Prevent Wildfires!"


Ned Readies for a Ride on "Bramble"

Joe Likes To Ride the Ponies


Viewing the Sunset from the Summit of Cadillac Mountain

Maine Ho!

Joe and Ned With Eartha

Bright and early Friday Morning we left Cape Cod for Maine. After dropping Mary off at Boston's Logan Airport and a tearful goodbye full of "We'll miss you"s we promptly took a wrong turn and ended up heading south through the Ted William's Tunnel and then turned around heading for New Hampshire. Using the GPS we managed to find our way back on route.

On entering Maine we stopped at Yarmouth to visit DeLorme's map shop. They have a giant, three story globe there named Eartha, the World's Largest Globe. The boys enjoyed it a great deal. We were sorry to leave Yarmouth without stopping for the Clam Festival but we still had many miles to go and a stop in Freeport.


Ned Looks out Over Eartha's Version of Africa

Freeport is the home of L.L. Bean. For those who have not visited they have a complex of stores and the whole town is full of outlets. I bought some hiking boots. The rest of the way to Acadia National Park we took Route 1 along the coast. It is a bit slower than the interstate but it is much more picturesque. We stopped quickly in the town of Rockland for a bite to eat and found a town worthy of a return visit when more time would be available. We finally reached our destination, Blackwoods Campground in Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island on the coast of Maine at 8:30 pm. We ended up setting up camp in the dark but we managed it and went to sleep quickly.


Osterville, MA to Acadia National Park, ME, 354 miles 7 hrs 58 min

Our Last Days on the Cape

Joe Shows the Proper Technique for Using a Touch Pool

Thursday and Friday were our last days on the Cape. Mary had to do some work so the boys and I dropped her off a the local community college to use their wireless connection.

On Thursday we headed to Falmouth and Woods Hole. We did some shopping in Falmouth and on the way to Woods Hole we stopped at the Nobska Light. In Woods Hole we visited the aquarium. It is a small aquarium but it packs a lot in.

On Friday we hung out at the house and in the evening after Mary got back we went out for a last boat ride. The ospreys were out and with the sun setting we made a last visit to crab beach. Then we headed back to the house to pack our things for the trip to Maine.


The Nobska Light


Woods Hole Has a Ships Coming Out of the Walls

Ned and Joe Viewing Fish


A 35 Year Old Lobster is Nearly as Big as Ned

Cape Cod National Seashore

Mary, Joe and Ned Brave the Fog at the Nauset Light

We spent Wednesday exploring the Outer Cape. We went to the Cape Cod National Seashore to visit some lighthouses and to let the boys get their Junior Ranger Badges.

The weather started fine but as the day wore on it began to rain and fog rolled in. On the way to the park we stopped at the Cape Cod Potato Chip factory and did the tour. We left smelling like potatos.

The park service changed the requirements for the Junior Ranger Badge that made it hard to get them in one day and on a short scehdule. We did get to visit the Nauset Light and take the short hike to see the Three Sisters Lighthouses. Afterwards we drove to Chatham to see the Chatham light and take the tour. Because of the bad weather the tours were cancelled.

Ann and Bill were visiting friends in Chatham and they invited us to stop in. They have an indoor pool and the boys spent the rest of afternoon swimming. On the way back to Osterville we stopped at Four Seas for our daily dose.


Joe and Ned Lounging in Front of One of the Three Sisters Lights



Joe, Mary and Ned (far right) in Front of Four Seas

Days of Beaches and Museums

Capt'n Ned the Scourge of Cape Cod

This week on the cape has been a busy one. We spent Monday at the beach and in the evening went on Uncle Bill's boat to do some fishing. Though we only caught one fish and Ned and I got a bit seasick it was fun.


Ned Digging at the Beach


Ned, Joe and Mary Enjoying an Evening of Boating and Fishing


Henry and Aunt Ann Admire Henry's Catch

Tuesday we went to the Heritage Museums and Gardens in Sandwich, MA. They have an exhibit on pirate life in New England, A Short Life and Merry: Pirates of New England, that we wanted to see. The museum grounds are famous for their rhododendrons and daylilies. They also have an extensive collection of antique automobiles, the Cape Cod Baseball League Hall of Fame, collections of americana, and a fine carousel.


Joe Gallops Away on the Carousel


Ned and Bobby Race to the Finish


The Dread Pirate Captain Henry Finds a Moment to Rest


Hey Joe! What's a Pirate's Favorite Letter?


Gary Cooper's 1930 Duesenberg J Derham Tourster


Ned and Henry Driving a 1913 Ford Model T?

First Day on the Cape

Ned and Mary Take a Rest at Crab Beach

Saturday, July 14, was our first day on the Cape. We got up early had breakfast and went to crab beach on Uncle Bill's boat. The day was beautiful and the water was very warm. Crab beach is on Cotuit Bay and there is a little pond between it and the ocean. We dug for clams and Uncle Bill did some fishing. We found enough clams to make chowder and steamers and Bill caught a few fish though none keepers.

Mary Pulling Joe Through the Water


Uncle Bill With One of the Fish He Caught

After we returned to the house we headed to Four Seas for our daily dose of their ice cream.

Henry, Ned, Joe, and Bill Out in Front of Four Seas

The Drive to Cape Cod

Ned Works the Locks at the National Canal Museum

We left Carlisle for Osterville, MA where Mary's sister has a house on Cape Cod at 8:00 am. On the way we stopped in Easton, PA to visit the National Canal Museum and the Crayola Factory. The National Canal Museum is a very nice museum showing the canal phase in America's history. Easton is a the junction of the Delaware and Lehigh canals. They are very kid oriented with a displays that allow you to float a canal boat through locks, harnass a mule, buils bridges and design a canal.

In the same building is the Crayola Factory. Instead a factory Crayola has set up "a hands-on discovery center." They have a room that does show you how crayons and markers are made and then there are areas to make art. You can mold clay, paint with hot wax and create puppets.


Joe Takes His Canal Boat Back Through the Locks


Joe Presents his Alien


Ned Shows Off His Model Magic Snake

After Easton we headed on and stopped for a late lunch in Brewster, NY at the Red Rooster. This place has great burgers and my favorite, egg creams (chocolate only please.)

Only one more stop found us in Mystic, CT for a late dinner at food shack overlooking Mystic Seaport. We could see some of the ships and made a note to visit the museum when it was open. We arrived on the Cape about 10:00 pm. Mary's sister picked Mary up at the airport (thank you, Ann) and they arrived about 11:00 pm.

The Red Rooster in Brewster, NY


Carlisle, PA to Osterville, MA 482 miles 10 hrs 11 min

Hike to Nowhere

Joe and Ned, Showing off His Scraped Knees, on the Trial to Flat Rock Vista

Today the boys and I went on a hike. I picked the Flat Rock Trail to the Flat Rock Vista overlooking the Cumberland Valley. It starts in Colonel Denning State Park and goes straight up the side of the mountain for 2.5 miles.

I found out that I need to do some more walking. We were about three fourths of the way up the trail when I started feeling bad. We were about a tenth of mile from the top and the vista when I had to stop. Joe was very concerned and was glad that I chose to return the trailhead. After getting back down and having a rest I felt better.

We took the long way to the park and drove on a number of logging roads through state forest lands. It was a beautiful day other than the part of the hike where I thought I was going to pass out.

We went into Carlisle for dinner and stopped by the burial ground to visit one Carlisle's more famous dead, Molly Pitcher. The boys really liked the graveyard and we spent some time counting the number and kinds of veteran flags next to graves. We found quite a lot of Revolutionary and Civil War veterans along with the occasional War of 1812, Spanish American War and WWI.


Joe and Ned Standing in Front of Molly Pitcher


Carlisle to Colonel Denning State Park 70 miles 5 hrs 20 min

To State College and Back

Ned Inside Grandma's Booth

Today, Wednesday, we went to State College, PA. Actually the trip was to Boalsburg, PA where Grandma is participating in the The People's Choice Festival. We went to help set up her booth (The Tole Booth) and to spend a little more time with her and Grandpa since they are there until Sunday and we leave for Cape Cod on Friday.
After setting up the booth we went into State College and had dinner at The Olde College Diner. Of course we had grilled stickies with ice cream. We bought a box to take with us so Mom can have some.


Joe Loves Grilled Stickies


Carlisle, PA to State College, PA, 180 miles 3hrs 56min

A Day in the Sun

Joe tubing in the pool

Today was spent poolside at the grandparents pool. Joe and Ned were in the pool a good six hours. Their cousins Michael, Zachary, and Marianna were also there to spend the day poolside along with Aunt Megan. Grandma and Pap-pap arrived back from their trip in time to join us. Even Aunt Miss came by later with cousin Vinnie.


Ned tubing in the pool


The Cousins Love the Water


Pap-pap Keeping an Eye on Things

Later in the evening I headed into town to get some groceries and make a stop at Massey's Frozen Custard always a stop when visiting Carlisle. I did go myself. Nobody else wanted to go.


Massey's Frozen Custard, Carlisle, PA

We are Off to Carlisle, PA

Joe and Ned Ready to Go

Yesterday we set off on the first part of the trip. Ned was a bit sad at leaving Mom but we will see her in five days. The drive was uneventful and we only stopped for dinner and gas in Cranberry, PA.


Ypsilanti, MI to Carlisle, PA, 464 miles 7 hrs 21 min

The Great Summer Road Trip 2007

Ypsilanti, MI to Cape Breton, NS and Back 3850 miles 70 hrs 30 min (driving time) estimate

Our trip this year is a long one. Joe, Ned and myself are taking off for four to five weeks. We will start off with a week in Pennsylvania visiting the family. A week on Cape Cod with Mary's sister's family is next. Mary will fly out to meet us. After that the only firm date are five days in Acadia National Park in Maine and the ferry from St John, New Brunswick to Digby, Nova Scotia.

From here on there isn't so much of a plan but more of a series of destinations. Halifax and Cape Breton Island on Nova Scotia. Charlottetown, Anne of Green Gables House on Prince Edward Island. Then on up to Quebec and travel up the St Lawrence River, along the northern edge of Lake Ontario and then home.