Biking Acadia And Off To New Hampshire

Joe and Ned at One of the Gate Houses Leading to the Carraige Trails

When we woke up Sunday morning we discovered that the storm the night before had broken one the tent poles that hold up the fly on the tent. Since we could not get a third night at the campground we were staying at I decided that we would spend the day in Acadia, do some laundry and then head for New Hampshire. The weather was beautiful and after breaking camp we headed into Bar Harbor and rented bikes. So far we a lot of hiking in Acadia National Park but there is another activity that is possibly more popular, biking the carriage trails.

Between 1913 and 1940 John D. Rockeller, Jr. constructed forty-five miles of rustic carriage roads and gave them to the park. They flow around the mountains and valleys of the park. Rockefeller, a skilled horseman, wanted to travel on motor-free byways via horse and carriage into the heart of Mount Desert Island. His construction efforts resulted in roads with sweeping vistas and close-up views of the landscape and include 16 stone faced bridges and two gatehouses. They gravel roads and crisscross the park.

We rented a bike and an add-a-bike for myself and Ned and a bike for Joe. After taking the Island Explorer Bike Express to Eagle Lake we headed south to Jordan Pond. The way was easy at first then there is a long climb which we had to walk up some. After coasting the hill down Joe was getting tired. I suggested we go the Jordan Pond House for a popover snack and he hopped back on and pedaled off. After our break we headed back north to Eagle Lake. The way back was hard on Joe. He kept stopping and walking his bike and one point sat down and decided he was done. He did get back on though and we made it back just in time to catch the Bike Express to town.


Eagle Lake


Colorful Waterplants


Ned Tries to Ride the Big Bike


Joe Taking a Water Break

Once we returned the bikes we made a stop at the laundromat did some laundry and then left for New Hampshire. We got to Conway New Hampshire around 9:00 pm. Since it was so late I thought we would stay at an hotel but they were either full or to expensive so we ended up sleeping in the car at National Forest campground near Conway.


Bar Harbor, ME to Conway, NH, 225 miles 4 hrs 44 min

We Are Back In Acadia National Park

Joe and Ned are Ready to Hike

We are back in Acadia National Park? Yes indeed. When we left last time I said I would be back but I didn't know it would be this soon and unfortunately without Mary. Well we so close how could we resist.

After making camp Friday night a thunderstorm came through which had me worried that we would not be able to get onto the mountains. But come Saturday morning it was hazy but not raining. We made a stop in Southwest Harbor to visit the Little Notch Bakery for breakfast and a loaf of bread then the library to check email. Then to Bar Harbor to get a map since I mailed my maps home when we left two weeks ago and pick up some cheese. By this time it was dry so we headed to the trail head.

The trail we picked was the Ladder Trail up Dorr Mountain. It only had to ladders to the boys dismay. To my dismay it is mostly granite stairs going straight up the mountain. Parts of it made me think of the passage in The Return of the King where Gollum leads Frodo and Sam into Mordor by way of the stairs to Cirith Ungol. Fortunately there was no giant spider just great views and many blueberries.


The Stairs of the Ladder Trail


A Tight Squeeze


The Summit of Dorr Mountain 1270 ft

I had a few ideas of the way to take back down once we were at the summit of Dorr Mountain. But as I looked at the map and over at Cadillac Mountain I thought, "we can do that." So we extended the hike to climb up Cadillac and then down to Bubble Pond where we would catch the bus back to the car. Sounds easy.

The half mile to the top of Cadillac is one hardest half miles I have hiked. The stairs up Dorr Mtn had really done me in, more than I realized. But, we made it and I lived to tell about it. We stopped to admire the view and then started down the western side to Bubble Pond. It was a hard mile and a half mostly down large slabs of granite. We made it just in time to catch the bus and soon we were back at the car. We had dinner in Southwest Harbor and that night we had a campfire. We were so tired that we didn't watch it long and went to bed.


Cadillac Mountain from the Top of Dorr Mountain


Joe and Ned Look Out Over Mount Desert Island


The Summit of Cadillac Mountain 1530 ft


The Way Down to Bubble Pond


Bubble Pond


The Hike from the Tarn to Bubble Pond


Joe Reflects Over the Day at the Campfire

A Day Of Superlatives And The Return To Acadia

Joe, Ned and Lobsterman With the World's Largest Lobster

Friday morning we were up early and on our way. In the planning phase of the trip I was going to go to Quebec City from Prince Edward Island. It was the one part of the trip that I didn’t like. Not Quebec, but the drive there. 12 hours plus from PEI through a lot of backwoods. So when we left PEI it was with the idea of going back through New Brunswick, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont and then up to Montreal.

We took the Confederation Bridge to get off of the island. The 14 km long Confederation Bridge was built in 1997 as an alternative way to get to PEI from the Canadian mainland. When we crossed it was very hazy so that you couldn’t see far across the bridge.


PEI in the Rearview Mirror and New Brunswick in the Distance


The Confederation Bridge the Longest Bridge to Span Ice Covered Waters

Once in New Brunswick we took a side trip to Shediac, NB to see the World’s Largest Lobster. The Shediac lobster is 35 ft long and sits at the entrance to the east side of town. From Shediac and the Lobster we stopped a Hartland, NB to see the Longest Covered Bridge in the World. The first of many covered bridges we would see in the next few days but certainly the longest.


Joe Having Lobster Problems


The Sign Says It All

From Hartland, NB it is a quick drive to the border of Maine and the USA though it took about 30 minutes to cross. While we were waiting a thunderstorm blew in and knocked the power out but after answering the border agent’s questions and having him search the back of the car we were back in the USA. At this point I wasn’t sure where we going. I thought of going to Baxter State Park but with the storm blowing through I passed on it. As I looked at the map I realized we were going to be close to Acadia again. When I mentioned this out loud the boys both asked if we could go back. After a quick stop in Bangor we did.

The problem with visiting Acadia National Park on the spur of the moment, in August, late in the day is that we had a hard time finding a place to stay. We ended up on the Western part of Mount Desert Island at a private campground. They found a site for us and we set up camp in the dark.


Cavendish, PEI to Acadia National Park, ME, 504 miles 12 hrs 7 min

Reversing Falls, A Ferry, And Whales

A Trip Through Maine Is Not Complete Without Blueberries

We left later than we wanted from Acadia National Park. Perhaps it was the park keeping me from getting up when alarm went off or it calling for me to stay and linger a little bit longer. But we did get up and broke camp and headed for Canada.

We took the scenic Route 1 along the Maine coast but because of the late start we could not stop long the way. When we reached Calais we had lunch and a fifteen minute wait at the border. We managed to get to St. John, New Brunswick with enough time to stop and view the Reversing Falls. They are rapids on the St John river that reverse direction when the tide comes in. It takes a while to watch them reverse, about 5 hours. We went to catch the ferry.

The ferry trip was nice. The ship was large and comfortable. We watched a movie and Joe and I saw some whales from the deck. One was spouting and I saw a whale tail. There were some porpoises swimming in the bow wake but when we got there they were gone. It was late when we got in so we decided to stay at an hotel in Digby, NS.


The Reversing Falls

Our Ship Comes In


The Bow Opens to Let Us In


Driving on the Princess of Acadia


Nova Scotia

Bar Harbor, ME to Digby, NS, 215 miles 8 hrs 59 min (Including time on ferry)

Mountains of Acadia

Atop Beech Mountain

Our last day in Acadia National Park was one up and down, literally. We walked across tidal pools and climbed two of the smaller maountains in the park.

We started in the morning for the western part of Mount Desert Island driving to the bustling town of Southwest Harbor. Southwest Harbor is very nice. I thought it much nicer than even Bar Harbor since the throngs of tourists (yes we were there but we are not much of a throng though the boys attempt to be sometimes) are absent. There is a very good bakery and grocery store and the library is wonderful.

From there we drove along route 102A to the natural seawall and explored the tidal pools. They were filled mostly with snails and kelp. Driving on we stopped at the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse one of the most picturesque lighthouses in Maine. The highlight for the boys was climbing the huge rocks and watching a lobsterman pulling up his traps, emptying them and sending back to the depths.


Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse


A Lobsterman Checking His Traps

Next stop was Echo Lake where we had lunch. After lunch we climbed Beech Mountain. The trail from Echo Lake is called Canadian Cliffs. It is a ladder trail which means that there are ladders fastened to the cliff face to help your ascent. Once at the top we took the Beech Cliffs loop for some great views. Coming down the ladders was the hardest part of the trail.


Joe and Ned Ascend a Ladder


The Canadian Cliffs Trail

Atop Beech Mountain


A Camouflaged Grasshopper Cannot Escape Joe

After this climb we were ready for, another climb. This time we went back to the eastern part of the island to tackle the Beehive. Not as challenging as the Precipice trail which climbs 1058 ft Champlain to the north the Behive is only 520 ft. The Behive is another ladder trail up the southern face. There are no ladders on this trail but iron rungs pounded into the granite cliff face to use as handholds or footholds. The boys were loving it and I had to call to them to slow down. We came down a trial that goes around the back of the Beehive by a hidden pond called the Bowl. The trail was laden with blueberries (note the "was") and the pond had beaver lodges and many frogs.


At the Start of the Beehive Trail


Our Goal the Beehive


Up the Side of the Beehive


Taking a Rest on One of the Ladder Sections


Don't Look Down!


The View From the Top


Blueberries on the Trail

After a late dinner we went to Sand Beach to partake in Stars Over Sand Beach though we left early since it was late and we had to break camp in the morning to catch our ferry in St John.

Acadia National Park was as beautiful and glorious as remember it from 20+ years ago when I last visited. Bar Harbor and the park was much more crowded though we were there at the height of the season. There were many things we didn't see or do like biking on the carriage trails but that only means we will have to come back and spend more time. One thing is for sure I am not going to wait another 20 years to return and Mary is coming with me.

Acadia National Park Hiking and Rain

It is Time to Get Up!

Monday we were up early to meet a park ranger for a hike up South Bubble. The theme of the hike was "Mountain Mysteries" the geology of Mount Desert Island. The main attraction for the boys was Bubble Rock. It is a large erratic deposited by the glaciers of the last ice age that seems to be balanced on the edge of the mountain.

After the hike we went down to the Jordan Pond House for lunch. We all enjoyed the pop overs and the boys went into the bushes and found blueberries. The weather started to turn to rain after lunch and instead of hiking some more we hopped in the car made a stop at the visitors center where Joe and Ned received their Junior Ranger badges Then we drove the park loop road stopping at Thunder Hole.

After dinner we went to the ranger program at the campground but the rain became to heavy and we headed off to bed.


Metamorphic Rocks are Like Play-Doh


Where is Bubble Rock From?


Are They Ones to Push Over Bubble Rock?


Joe Samples a Popover on the Lawn at Jordan Pond House


Joe Shows off his Haul of Blueberries


Joe and Ned are Tested for Junior Ranger


The Boys Take Their Junior Ranger Oath


The Precipice Trial up Mount Champlain


Thunder Hole at a Quiet Moment

Acadia National Park

Enjoying a Sunset on the Summit of Cadillac Mountain

Sunday, July 22, was our first day to explore the park. After breakfast we went to the park's Vistors Center to get the boys' Junior Ranger books and an overview of the park. The Friends of Acadia and the park were sponsoring the second annual Acadia Adventures: Family Fun Day at Sieur de Monts. There were about 15 different activities for the kids try our like a nature scavenger hunt, sun prints, pony rides and meeting Smokey the Bear. It was a lot of fun and they even provided lunch.

That night we headed to the top of Cadillac Mountian to view the sunset. The weather was perfect and the sunset brilliant. After we got back to camp we went to the ranger program then to bed.


Our Campsite at Blackwoods Campground

Joe Works on his Junior Ranger Badge


It is Hard Work


Cadillac Mountian From Afar


Joe and Smokey the Bear Remind You That, "Only You Can Prevent Wildfires!"


Ned Readies for a Ride on "Bramble"

Joe Likes To Ride the Ponies


Viewing the Sunset from the Summit of Cadillac Mountain

Maine Ho!

Joe and Ned With Eartha

Bright and early Friday Morning we left Cape Cod for Maine. After dropping Mary off at Boston's Logan Airport and a tearful goodbye full of "We'll miss you"s we promptly took a wrong turn and ended up heading south through the Ted William's Tunnel and then turned around heading for New Hampshire. Using the GPS we managed to find our way back on route.

On entering Maine we stopped at Yarmouth to visit DeLorme's map shop. They have a giant, three story globe there named Eartha, the World's Largest Globe. The boys enjoyed it a great deal. We were sorry to leave Yarmouth without stopping for the Clam Festival but we still had many miles to go and a stop in Freeport.


Ned Looks out Over Eartha's Version of Africa

Freeport is the home of L.L. Bean. For those who have not visited they have a complex of stores and the whole town is full of outlets. I bought some hiking boots. The rest of the way to Acadia National Park we took Route 1 along the coast. It is a bit slower than the interstate but it is much more picturesque. We stopped quickly in the town of Rockland for a bite to eat and found a town worthy of a return visit when more time would be available. We finally reached our destination, Blackwoods Campground in Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island on the coast of Maine at 8:30 pm. We ended up setting up camp in the dark but we managed it and went to sleep quickly.


Osterville, MA to Acadia National Park, ME, 354 miles 7 hrs 58 min